Travel

As you will see later in the website, LADAP raises most of its money to give awards and group grants through membership dues and surcharges on trips that it organizes. We are known for our spectacular cultural guided tours which access artists in their homes and workshops, visit avid collectors estates, attend amazing local ferias and market places, and attend cultural events and venues. These trips are planned by our members on a volunteer basis to keep the costs low. In another tab on the website you will find our Calendar of Events. Below are recaps of some of our trips for you to see what you can expect when you join us traveling. Please consider joining LADAP. Our dues and trip costs are very reasonable. Trips usually sell out rapidly. The only way you can get advance information about our trips is to become a member and get our free newsletter. Please consider joining after carefully reading the travel disclaimer and insurance sections in the Trip Procedures and Guidelines document above.

Trip Procedures Guidelines

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Past Trips

THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE PHOTO ESSAY: FROM PRIMITIVE TO PAINTERLY

By member Norma Schafer, Oaxaca Cultural Navigator

The Franz Mayer Museum in Mexico City recently featured a special exhibition about the Virgin of Guadalupe. The images included primitive figures in carved wood, elaborate paintings and wood carvings from church altars, woven and embroidered textiles and contemporary 2016 photographs by Federico Gamataken taken at the Basilica de Guadalupe in Mexico City.

Why was I so taken with this exhibition? Certainly not from a religious point-of-view, but from one interested in the cultural expression of this great nation. The Virgin of Guadalupe is Mexico’s own, personal patron saint.

To me, she is a woman of strength and valor, able to transform and uplift a nation. She is Mother Earth, fertility and blessing. Her figure transcends and tricks the Spanish overlord. She is disguised as and more than the Virgin Mary. Her roots are indigenous. She belongs to the people.

I am also taken with the various artistic expressions of her figure and how she is depicted: her facial expressions, the use of color and shadows on the folds of her gown, and the portrayal of the angel at her feet, from simple to elaborate. It seems that everyone had their own version of the Virgin of Guadalupe vision.

Editor’s Note: Her feast day is December 12. On this day, public celebrations, fiestas and processions are held in her honor throughout Mexico and the Americas.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
AMIGOS VOLUNTEER (AND SHOP) AT THE 15th ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET (IFAM)

Once again this year, Los Amigos provided grant funds to IFAM to help with transportation for 21 artisans from Mexico to Santa Fe, NM. Highlights from the festive and very successful event included:

150 artists representing 51 countries
$3.3 million in total sales
Average artist sales = more than $21,000
211,000 lives impacted
Over 1,774 amazing volunteers — including several Amigas

A total of 24 Amigos were in Santa Fe for the Market. Those that volunteered assisted artisans from Mexico with translating and facilitating sales. Several members attended as shoppers and both groups, volunteers and shoppers, met for a fun dinner at the Santa Fe Bar & Grill. Thanks, Jo Ann Ward, for getting us all together!

Volunteer Amigas Jo Ann Ward, Gayla Pierce, Trinie Garcia-Valdez and Macon McCrossen.

Amigos enjoying themselves at a meet and greet dinner in Santa Fe

SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA: MISSION PROTOTYPE, CERAMICS AND MEMORABLE MEALS

By member Ward Albro of Albro’s Mexico Tours

In Michoacan, Patzcuaro, and the towns around the lake of the same name, have long been one of our favorite destinations in Mexico. The Purepecha culture, which dominates the area, was once considered cold and unwelcoming. That is clearly not the case today and few places in Mexico make you feel more welcome. Of all the towns around the lake the small town on the northern edge, Santa Fe de la Laguna, has given us some of our most memorable recent experiences.

Santa Fe de la Laguna also has special relevance for many Amigos in the American Southwest who take pride in their “mission” heritage. It was in Santa Fe that beloved bishop, Vasco de Quiroga, still fondly remembered as “Tata Vasco” throughout the region, developed the prototype of the mission. Influenced by the ideas of Thomas More’s Utopia, Quiroga’s “hospital-pueblos” evolved into the missions that would spread Spanish and Indigenous culture across much of two continents.

Today, Santa Fe de la Laguna is well known for the production of fine ceramic pieces. For fear of leaving out some talented artisans I will not mention names other than a dear friend, Nicolas Fabian. Nicolas is well known to collectors and his work is featured in shows throughout both Mexico and the United States. Nicolas is also a tireless promoter of Purepecha history and culture. His local radio operation broadcasts to Purepecha audiences throughout the United States and Canada. It is a strong expression of cultural pride, further illustrated by the fact that all schools are bilingual — Spanish and Purepecha.

With Nicolas Fabian
I also mention Nicolas because his wife, Maria del Rosario Lucas Bautista, is not only an accomplished ceramicist, but widely recognized as one of the leading traditional chefs. A meal prepared in Rosario’s kitchen is truly memorable. Just down the road in Quiroga they loudly tout the “world’s best carnitas.” Save that for another day because if Rosario cannot prepare you a meal in Santa Fe, you might get one from Ines Dimas, who also operates a small hotel in the center of town!

If you haven’t been, put Santa Fe de la Laguna on your bucket list!

Tot with Ines Dimas

With my wife Tot, Nicolas and Rosario

BAILE FLOR DE PIÑA: CULTURAL MISREPRESENTATION OR CULTURAL PRESERVATION? By member Stephanie Schneiderman (MI) of Tia Stephanie Tours.

The annual Guelaguetza Festival is around the corner. Every July, locals and visitors converge in Oaxaca City to witness traditional dances representing Oaxaca’s diverse regions and ethnicities. From the languid “Zandunga” of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, the twirling Chinas Oaxaquenas from the Central Valleys, to the Jarabe Mixteco banda music that fills the crisp air, dancers demonstrate a part of their cultural heritage. One dance in particular is highly anticipated and always brings down the house. The “Baile Flor de Piña,” with its grand and repetitive choreography, was designed to deliver high visual impact. But, what really steals the show are the brightly colored Chinantec and Mazatec huipiles worn by the dancers! The Baile Flor de Piña is an unapologetically contrived dance. It makes no attempt or claim to be ethnographic nor ancestral. The dance was created in 1958 by choreographer Paulina Solis Ocampo to represent Tuxtepec at the grand Guelaguetza Festival. Ocampo set out to choreograph a dance that would be “the most beloved dance of the Guelaguetza.” But how would she represent a region of multiple cultural and ethnic expressions? This region of Oaxaca is inhabited by Chinantec, Mazatec, and some Cuicatec people. It is also part of the “Sotavento” Papaloapan River Basin that shares the “jarocho” culture with Veracruz. Ocampo identified the unique cultural traits of this region and decided that front and center would be the remarkable huipiles — the woven and embroidered dress of this region. She would also incorporate the pineapple that grows so abundantly in this region. So with huipiles and pineapples as her hallmarks, she created the “Baile Flor de Piña.”

While there is nothing ethnographic nor traditional about the dance, one thing IS ethnographic: the dress! The colorful huipiles come from the ancestral Chinantec and Mazatec tradition, from communities such as San Felipe Usila, San Lucas Ojitlan, and Valle Nacional. They are woven on the back strap loom with design motifs depicting double-headed eagles, peacocks, diamond shapes, and hummingbirds. The Mazatec huipiles from Jalapa de Diaz, San Miguel Soyaltepec and San Pedro Ixcatlan are embroidered with lovely birds and flowers. With a plethora of colorful woven and embroidered huipiles, Ocampo knew that uniting 30+ women in these remarkable garments, adding repetitive choreography, splashy music, and a pineapple, would make for a high visual impact and create a sensation. She was right. The dance at the Guelaguetza always brings the enthusiastic crowd to their feet!

Recently, an intrepid group of Amigos traveled to “La Chinantla.” In many communities it was observed that fewer of the younger generations are wearing traditional dress. Some in the group asked the artisans about their production and markets. We learned that today, the production of traditional textiles in the Chinantec and Mazatec regions of Oaxaca are largely for external markets. In the case of San Miguel Soyaltepec, the artisans stated that all of their production was for selling. In Rancho Grande and Valle Nacional, 80% of their annual sales of huipiles and textiles are made during the Guelaguetza Festival — the sales going to dancers, as well as fans, who like to wear the huipiles during the festival month of July and beyond. The Baile Flor de Piña has become widespread and is now known outside of Oaxaca and outside of Mexico. One textile collector indicated he began collecting textiles only after seeing the Baile Flor de Piña in Houston! So, while the Baile Flor de Piña dance is not ethnographic and the Guelaguetza Festival too has its share of controversy, they are both key contributors to the ongoing tradition and preservation of the Chinantec and Mazatec dress and, in turn, weaving and embroidery techniques. Because of this, I believe the Guelaguetza and the Baile Flor de Piña are contributors, in their own way, to cultural preservation.

Photo credits: 1st photo by Edder McYanni, 2nd photo by Oaxaca Tourism and 3rd photo by Raul Aguilar.

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COOKING IN AJIJIC

LADAP supports the Féria de Maestros through grants that enable artisans to bring their wares to this popular market each November on the shores of beautiful Lake Chapala in Jalisco. Through the efforts of LADAP board member Cathey Merrill, some of us had the wonderful opportunity to take a hands-on cooking class in nearby Ajijic just prior to the 2017 Féria opening. Chef Linda Harley, of AbueLinda’s Cuisine, gave us a lecture on Mexican cooking as we sliced, diced, toasted and roasted ingredients for what turned out to be an outstanding and unique Mexican meal.

Harley is a woman on a mission. She is intent on sharing the diversity of Mexico through its unique culinary culture. Did you know that there are 536 registered Mexican recipes on file with UNESCO? China is second with just over 500 registered recipes.

Potatoes with cilantro parsley pork chorizo (See picture above)

Mexico has given the world more ingredients than any other country. Among them are some of the basic staples eaten world-wide like beans, tomatoes, corn, peanuts and potatoes. Also included are avocados, chia, amaranth, mescal, and many more tasty foods. And who can forget tequila?

Our first dish was a light, refreshing cocktail of fruit and veggies including jicama, carrot, grapefruit and tangerines that we munched on while slicing and dicing for the next appetizer of green chorizo with red potatoes and roasted poblano chile.

The main course was a red mole made with roasted peanuts and chicken served over steamed rice. Absolutely awesome! The fire roasted veggies and peanuts were amazing on the palate. For dessert, we had an interesting baked custard dish, typical of the Jalisco region, called jericalla, and lots of little goodies including amaranth and coconut candies.

Harley also rescues old textiles and recycles the salvageable parts to make chef’s jackets. She also works with potters in the remote desert areas of Los Reyes Mezontla, in the state of Puebla, to improve their pottery kitchenware designs.

The Féria de Maestros lasts three days and is a “must see” event for the Mexican folk art aficionado. But if you have time while you are in the Lake Chapala area, and would like to learn more about the extensive and unique cuisine of Mexico, consider an educational and tasty appointment with Linda Harley at AbueLinda’s Cuisine.

Cilantro parsley pork chorizo (1)

Linda pointing out desert
location of potters (2)

Linda’s chef jacket out of
recycled huipiles (3)

By Adda Quinn, Board member and LADAP website manager

 

DON’T MISS THE FERIA IN LAKE CHAPALA, JALISCO
November 8-12, 2017

Once again, LADAP has awarded a financial grant to the Feria Maestros to assist with bringing Mexican artisans to the Feria where they can sell their treasures. Each year Amigos Ron and Cathey Merrill, who have a home in nearby Ajijic, plan activities around the dates of the Feria to encourage participation in the Feria and extend the benefits of flying into Mexico for the three day Feria. We hope you will join us for the 2017 rendezvous!

NOTE: Unlike last year, this is not an extended rendezvous for the purpose of raising money for LADAP projects and, as such, there is no registration fee. Invite your friends and family along!

For planning purposes, please email your intention to participate along with your choice for day trip and any questions to Cathey Merrill at mexamigos@att.net.

We suggest arriving no later than Tuesday, November 7. That will give you all day Wednesday to adjust to the altitude which is over 5,000 feet. If altitude doesn’t affect you, you will have an extra day to explore the villages around the lake or take in the weekly Wednesday Market in Ajijic.

Wednesday, November 8

At 6 pm we will meet for dinner together at a yet to be determined restaurant. At that time, all final details will be distributed to participants.

Thursday, November 9
There will be two options from which to choose from:

1) A day trip by van to a specific destination yet to be chosen. Let us know which of the following YOU would prefer — we will choose only one based on which receives the most votes from committed participants:
Tequila to visit the Jose Cuervo distillery
Mazamitla, a Swiss style village in the mountains
Island of Mescala
Around Lake Cajititlan to visit artisans not participating in the Feria
Hacienda tours

You will pay the tour guide directly at the time the tour begins (in pesos, please). Estimated cost of day trip is about $100 USD per person including tip.

2) A cooking class at Abuelinda’s in Ajijic costing $35 USD. The class runs from about 11 am until 2 pm, is very hands on and results in eating your creations for lunch. Linda Harley, the chef, is deciding between these two options:
Tasting of three moles, Oaxacan and Poblano and cooking an encacahuatado (chicken in peanut sauce)
Making “sopes” and then pairing them with different toppings.
Thursday evening you are on your own for dinner.

Friday, November 10
The Feria Maestros opens at 10 am at the Yacht Club in Chapala. All taxis know this location. You can purchase food at the Feria or eat at the Yacht Club restaurant or at other nearby restaurants. Once your hand is stamped, you can come and go all day without having to repay the minimal entrance fee. The Feria is open from 10 am to 5 pm each day. A list of participating artisans can be found by visiting the Feria website.

Saturday, November 11
Return to the Feria to shop, meet friends or visit with the artisans! If you don’t want to return to the Feria, walk along the lakeside malecon in Chapala and explore the nearby Catholic church and Municipal building which is full of painted murals inside. Or taxi to Ajijic which is just 3 miles away and walk the main street, Colon, to explore the shops and restaurants, the main plaza and then onto the lakeside malecon. While in the plaza, visit the Cultural Center. If you are a collector, visit Barbara’s Bazaar on 16 de Septiembre and the other local antique shops. Don’t forget to stop by Efren Gonzalez Gallery on Corona street (open 10 am to 2 pm daily).

Sunday, November 12
Return to the Feria and/or explore Chapala or Ajijic as suggested in the activities for Saturday.

Sunday afternoon from 3 to 6 pm there will be an open house at the Merrill home and you are invited! Feast on appetizers and drinks, view the Merrill’s collection of Mexican folk art, and enjoy a wonderful view of Lake Chapala. You are welcome to come early and stay late!

Donations to LADAP are always welcome but not required for participation in this trip.

Article by Cathey Merrill (TX), Chapala trip coordinator and former LADAP president.

 

TRIP RECAP - Amigos in Guatemala for Semana Santa

LADAP President Bill Roe planned the perfect itinerary for a group of 24 Amigos who ventured past Mexico and into Guatemala for Holy Week! It was a wonderful
14-day trip filled with warm people, vibrant colors, long-standing traditions and beautiful landscapes.

Accommodations were top notch — in a former convent in Antigua with six museums on the beautiful grounds and lakeside in Atitlan with impeccable gardens and a view of a volcano across the lake. As usual, Amigos easily caught up with old friends and warmly welcomed new travelers.

Semana Santa activities included a series of very somber and moving processions through town where people carried massive wooden platforms with large santos on them, cobblestoned streets lined with colored sawdust alfombras (carpets), music and lots of incense! Between festivities, the group was treated to a textile lecture, weaving/dyeing demonstrations and the opportunity to meet Grand Master weaver Carolina Perez de Guaran from San Antonio Aguascalientes.

Grand Master weaver Carolina Perez de Guaran & daughters

There were trips to bustling mercados in Sololá and Chichicastenango, shopping in Panajachel, visits to churches and museums, and a boat ride across Lake Atitlan to visit the villages of San Juan La Laguna and Santiago de Atitlan. In Antigua, a local shaman and published author explained Mayan legends and we toured the home of artist and collector of vintage huipiles Deborah DuFlon. We also visited with antique dealers Gio and Stephanie — who had a warehouse filled with santos, slingshots, jewelry, masks and Maximóns! (Photo by Macon McCrossen)

Some of us learned that, after leaving Mexico in the 1990s, Ken Edwards, the famous American potter who worked with Jorge Wilmot in Tonala, Jalisco, moved to a small town on the edge of Lake Atitlan. There he trained two young brothers to make stoneware ceramics that combine the classic Tonala hand painted graphics, ancient Chinese techniques and Edwards’ original designs. Although it appears Edwards has left Guatemala, the brothers continue to produce the pottery and have built a successful business around their craft. It was nice to see the Mexico-influenced pottery in shops and restaurants.

Women’s collectives offered an overabundance of colorful, intricately woven textiles and Amigos shopped ’til they dropped! Many had to purchase extra carry-on bags to accommodate their purchases. Of course, the bags were made of beautiful huipiles! The trip was capped with an amazing visit to Tikal to see, and for some to climb, the impressive Mayan ruins. All in all, it was a very special trip filled with spectacular sights and experiences that will be remembered for a long time to come.

Thanks to Bill for planning! Thanks to David Garcia and Gayla Pierce for leading!

Article and photos by Trinie Garcia-Valdez (except as noted).

Photo by David Garcia

Photo by Graciela Rogerio